Tutorial Section - Basic Pants w/gusset

This tutorial is still in beta and needs testers! Will you sew a pair of pants from this pattern and let Ilsa know:

  • if the instructions make sense
  • if the 15" rise is correct for your body, and
  • if the pattern produces something that fits you well?

Thank you!

Basic Pants with a Gusset

By Ilsa of Tailored Tunics and Gorg's Garb Girl

This tutorial will teach you how to make a pair of garb pants from your own measurements. These pants have just four pieces: two pant legs, a drawstring, and a special piece called a 'gusset.' This extra piece is sewn between your pant legs. It will ensure you have an adequate range of motion. If you've ever had a pair of fighting pants rip at the crotch, look sharp: this is what you need to make your pants last.

Before You Begin

--Dagorhir fighting pants take a ton of abuse, and bad or thin fabric will shorten their life. Pick a sturdy fabric, like target, 7 oz linen, or anything from the 'bottomweight' section of the fabric store. Make sure you prewash your fabric so it doesn't shrink or bleed dye later.

--Pick a seam finish so the cut edge of your cloth won't unravel. If you're an absolute beginner, I suggest you zigzag over your seams. For pants, flat-felling or French seams are a good choice. If you want them to be super-durable, try stitching each seam twice or sewing down the seam allowance of your French seams.

--Take your time to measure and cut as carefully as you can. Use sharp scissors for cutting, a thin writing utensil for tracing your pattern (not a fat Sharpie!), and a ruler with 1/8" increments. Attention to details will make your experience so much easier!

Supplies

You'll need:

Measuring and Drawing Your Pattern:

--A flexible measuring tape
--A pencil
--A ruler
--A yardstick
--A pair of scissors to cut paper
--A large sheet of paper to draw your pattern on (I like brown kraft paper or posterboard, but old newspaper or freezer paper will work).

Sewing:

--2.5 yards of sturdy fabric prewashed
--About two yards of sturdy cord for drawstring (thin clothesline, paracord/550 cord [try the Army Surplus store], 1/4" double-fold bias tape sewn shut along the long edge, or anything that's not too weak, thin, or slippery), prewashed
--Something to trace your pattern onto your fabric (chalk, a china marker, thin ballpoint pen, disappearing fabric marker) [urls]
--A large blunt needle or drawstring threader
--A pair of shears (Different from the ones you use to cut paper. Paper will blunt scissors really fast, so keep one pair that's only used to cut cloth!)
--A spool of polyester thread
--A sewing machine or a handsewing needle
--A iron (optional but very valuable)

Take Your Measurements

Using your flexible measuring tape, measure the:

A. Circumference of the widest point of one thigh + 4" = ______
B. Circumference of the widest part of one ankle (over the heel with your foot pointed) + 2" = ________
C. Distance from 2" below belly-button level to ankle, taken along outside of leg, + 3" = ________

When taking the outseam measurement (C), it's better to err on the side of too long than too short. It's possible to wear or alter pants that are too long in the crotch (at the very worst, you can easily shorten them before you put the drawstring in), but pants that are too short in the crotch are misery! We find that  38" to 40" is a typical height for measurement C.

The inches we added give you enough extra fabric to sew your seam (seam allowance), some room to move (ease), and, on measurement C, length so we can add a drawstring casing and hem (hem allowance). Specifically, each seam has a 1/2" seam allowance. The drawstring has a 2" casing (1" folded down twice), and the bottom hem has a 1" hem allowance.

Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
Basic Pants with Gusset
 
 
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